Thirty kilometers from the Adriatic Sea, next to lake Skadar, are infinite rows of grapevines from one of the largest vineyards in Europe – Ćemovsko polje. It covers 2.300 hectars with around 11.5 million grapevines. Even though it may seem impossible, 95% grapes from Ćemovsko polje are picked manually. More than 2,000 people participate during the harvest that lasts from August to the end of September.  

Today Plantaže is a modern enterprise known for its authentic varieties of Vranac and Krstač wines which have garnered awards and gained recognition for their distinct geographical origins. They are meticulously crafted and stored in the impressive Šipčanik wine cellar, where more than two million litres of wine mature to perfection. Plantaže are also a huge contributor to the national economy and the country’s biggest exporter to over 44 countries worldwide across nearly every continent. 

Tikveš is the most well-known wine region in Macedonia. It is in the very heart of the country and stretches along similar latitudes as the Bordeaux region in France, Tuscany region in Italy and the Napa Valley region in California. The wine district is situated on around 2,000 sqm of fertile land, surrounded by mountains on three sides.  

T’ga za Jug wine was created at the beginning of the seventies of the last century, where the name comes from the title of a poem by Konstantin Miladinov, a famous poet from Struga who lived in the middle of the 19th century. He spent some time living in Russia where he wrote an elegy in which he yearns for his homeland. T’ga has become a symbol of North Macedonian wine, reflecting the distinctive essence of the southern regions.  

Vinarija Jović, a charming boutique winery from Knjaževac, is one of the few in Serbia’s treasure trove of hidden gems, perhaps best known for its popular Vranac wines. The winery’s brand is also the famous Potrkanj Vranac and Višnjica, an internationally recognised wine made from an autochthonous cherry variety.

Owner Željko Jungić shares that his motivation for starting the winery comes from a blend of determination and passion, driven by the curiosity of seeing Slovenians, Austrians, Swiss, English, Swedes, and Canadians successfully producing wine, while Bosnia and Herzegovina had no local grape cultivation and winemaking. In pursuit of his ambition, over 18,000 vines of high-quality wine varieties now thrive on approximately 6 hectares of Markovac village’s picturesque slopes.  

In addition to the vineyard, a fully equipped winery winery and a welcoming tavern have been constructed to cater for tourists. Jungić’s best known wine is the red Šikar. The winery puts a special focus on cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and white chardonnay, pinot blanc and rhine riesling varieties.  

One of the most awarded wineries with a long tradition of producing top quality wines from native Croatian varieties. Located in the village Sveta Nedjelja, it is surrounded by stunning and distinctive vineyards on the steep southern slopes of the Hval island. The vineyards are special because they grow on slopes with inclines of up to 40%, where they have great sun exposure while benefitting from the stabilising influence of the nerby sea which prevents excessive temperature fluctuations. The pinnacle of their wine production is the world-renowned and extensively awarded Zlatan Plavac Grand Select, originating from these exceptional vineyards.  

Judging by this year’s sold-out performances of this iconic ballet, Ljubljana was in dire need of magic this year. For those who missed out on tickets to this year’s show, we have decided to bring a touch of Nutcracker magic this morning to your home.  Take a journey into the land of sugar, snow, and fantasy by immersing yourself into one of the literary inspirations behind the ballet: A Christmas Carol, penned by the illustrious English novelist and social critic of the Victorian era, Charles Dickens. A Christmas Carol is a novella that has become a timeless classic. It tells the story of Ebenezer Scrooge, a miserly old man who undergoes a transformation after being visited by the ghosts of Christmas Past, Present, and Yet to Come. The tale beautifully highlights themes of redemption, compassion, and the true spirit of Christmas.

Another Christmas classic from which the libretto is adapted, is E.T.A. Hoffman’s story The Nutcracker and the Mouse King. In the story, the Nutcracker is a Christmas toy that comes to life and defeats the evil Mouse King. The ballet is a combination of the two classic literature pieces.  It tells the story of a young girl Marie Stahlbaum who receives a nutcracker toy as a Christmas gift from her godfather, Drosselmeyer. On Christmas Eve, the magical toy comes to life, and Marie finds herself in a fantastical world of princes, sweets, and fairies.

Nutcracker’s storyline is indeed whimsical and fun, however, when it comes to magic, the music takes the cake. The performance’s most famous piece of musical writing is the Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy, written by Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky and originally choreographed by Lev Ivanov. The Sugar Plum Fairy is the ballet’s leading role and one of the most challenging performances. This captivating character was initially brought to life by an Italian prima donna and a ballet dancer, Antonietta Dell’Eraa. The original play from 1982 was already revolutionary as it included a lot of child ballet dancers, who brought a unique magical energy to the performance. In Ljubljana, the ballet still follows this tradition. In the show, ballet soloists and the ballet choir of the SNG Opera and Ballet Ljubljana perform along with students from the Conservatory of Music and Ballet in Ljubljana.

One of Ljubljana’s oldest streets, first mentioned in 1802, Trubarjeva has changed names a few times. Initially named as Nikolausgasse, it became known  as Proštijska Street in 1892. Then, in 1955, it assumed its present-day name, honouring the name of the founder of Slovenian literature and the author of the first Slovenian book, Primož Trubar.

Trubarjeva is dotted with a variety of quirky shops. Slovenia’s oldest umbrella repair shop, still thriving at Trubarjeva 18. Marija Lah, the shop’s owner, is the last umbrella vendor in Ljubljana, overseeing the business for the past 30 years. Originally opened by her father in 1966, Marija took charge of Dežnik after he fell ill. Impressively, Lah manages to repair 98% of the umbrella, while the remaining 2% are converted into sustainable and adorable shopping bags. “In each umbrella, I see the materials and human craftwork, energy and work that has been put into the making-of process,” says Lah.

Strolling down Trubarjeva, blindfolded, might whisk you away to far-flung corners of the globe, as the tantalizing aromas from nearby restaurants envelop your senses – just watch out for the historic cobblestone beneath your feet! An international culinary tapestry unfolds on the street, featuring diverse kitchens such as Lebanese, Thai, Greek, and more. Among the gems is Abi Falafel, an eye-catching eatery that has graced the street for a decade. Founded by a dynamic father-daughter duo, Hana Shaar, the daughter, hails from a unique blend of Palestinian and Slovenian heritage, a union rooted in her parent’s student days in the former Yugoslavia. Abi Falafel prides itself on using locally sourced ingredients and importing spices, resulting in a vibrant menu encompassing everything from shish kebabs to an array of enticing vegetarian dishes.

Culinary experiences aside, Trubarjeva is also home to important cultural, activist, artistic and educational institutions: the environmental center Focus, autonomous factory Rog, one of the most famous antique shops in Ljubljana – Carniola Antiqua, Slovenian-Serbian Club – Bookstore, Reading Room, Gallery and Antique Shop, House of Experiments and many more. In short – Trubarjeva is a dashing place, appropriate for all occasions, from holiday shopping and fine dining to indulging your mind and soul in more or less alternative cultural events.

Beyond its culinary delights, Trubarjeva encapsulates a vibrant tapestry of cultural, activist, artistic, and educational institutions. Here, you’ll find the environmental hub Focus, the autonomous factory Rog, the renowned antique emporium Carniola Antiqua, and the multifaceted Slovenian-Serbian Club featuring a bookstore, reading room, gallery, and antique shop. Add to this the intriguing science hub House of Experiments and many other establishments, and you have a thorough immersion into the varied cultural landscape. In essence, Trubarjeva is a dynamic locale, suited for every occasion – whether it’s holiday shopping, exquisite dining, or immersing your mind and soul in a spectrum of alternative cultural events.

Jovanović’s Resting Bashi-Bazouk is a representation of his orientalist phase, showcasing exceptional attention to detail. The 19th century painting, created using the oil on board technique, realistically depicts a member of the Ottoman army in a moment of rest, dressed in a local costume – a white kilt and a red vest, with two bandoliers and a knife strapped to his belt.

in 2018, another artwork by Jovanović was sold at Sotheby’s also exceeding the estimate by threefold. Bashi-bazouks before a Gateway  was painted in 1887-88 and became the most expensive artwork sold by a Serbian artist.

Bashi-bazouks, irregular soldiers within the Ottoman army, were enlisted from the regions of Serbia and Albania during the time when these territories were under Ottoman rule. Funded and equipped by the government, they operated without regular pay, uniforms, or identifiable badges. Opting for their local attire, these soldiers were not formally trained for significant military campaigns but proved valuable for assignments like reconnaissance and outpost duties.

Jovanović, a prominent figure in Serbia’s art scene, studied at the Vienna Academy under Karl Leopold Müller. His patrons included King Alexander of Serbia, and his work was exgibited in Vienna, Munich, and Berlin.

The Serbian acting and directing maestro has starred in 92 films, many of which he masterfully guided behind the camera. But this project was one of the hardest, he said.

“This was the most challenging film, by far the most challenging one I’ve undertaken; it took seven years to make,” said Bjelogrlić.

In this latest endeavor, he artfully delves into poignant themes of mortality, malady, the Cold War, and the intricacies of human nature itself.  In the absorbing drama Guardians of the Formula«, Bjelogrlic transports audiences to 1958 France and Yugoslavia, unfolding a narrative around a Belgrade nuclear reactor leak. The film’s core explores the relationships among four nuclear researchers treated by Professor Georges Mathe, played by Alexis Manenti of “Les Miserables” fame, the winner of the Cannes Film Festival in 2019 and a French nominee for an Oscar.

As the narrative alternates between events leading to the Belgrade contamination and subsequent treatments in Paris, the film delves into the friendships and romances blossoming amidst adversity.

The ensemble cast, led by Manenti and Radivoje ’Raša’ Bukvić, skillfully portrays the ideological divide bridged by respectful common ground. Despite attempts to infuse Hollywood drama, moments of heavy-handedness are balanced by Manenti’s restrained yet powerful performance. His portrayal of Professor Mathe, a morally-minded figure of the Resistance, serves as a prism illuminating the intricate ideological currents of the Cold War.

Alongside theirs are also performances by the Slovenian actor Jurij Drevenšek in the role of UDBA agent, Dragan Bjelogrlić (portraying UDBA chief Aleksandar Ranković), Predrag Miki Manojlović, Lionel Abelanski, Ognjen Mićović, Anne Serra, Jérémie Laheurte, and others.

A regional collaboration in the truest sense, the film is a co-production between Serbia, Slovenia, Montenegro, and North Macedonia. Slovenia is prominently present in this film, both through the Drevenšek’s significant role and as a key film location: parts of the movie were filmed in the reactor of the Jožef Stefan Institute and other locations in Ljubljana and Škofja Loka.

LIFFe film festival is on until 19 November 2023.