On the 25th of April in 1882, the Imperial Ministries of Interior, Finances, and Commerce, in conjunction with the Royal Hungarian Government in Budapest, made the decision to prohibit the importation of a product known as “Indian Cigarettes”. These cigarettes bore the brand of Grimault, a Parisian firm, and were notable for their purported primary ingredient, cannabis indica.

Societal hierarchy

Austria-Hungary, during this era, was marked by a rigid social hierarchy with distinct divisions among its strata. Interestingly, though not widely recognised at the time, it was revealed that in the 1870s, even figures as prominent as empress Elisabeth – better known as “Sisi” – and her daughter had utilised medicinal cannabis. Later examples include that of Count Ferdinand Hompesch and his agricultural experiments conducted on the Rudnik moor near Ljubljana, cannabis indica among them.

Ordinary Austrians also embraced its medicinal potential for a variety of ailments. In the early 20th century, a Viennese pharmacist recounted that cannabis had been prescribed for a wide range of medical purposes. These applications included its use “against coughs in consumptive patients, to manage uterine bleeding, as a labour-inducing remedy, preferred over ergot according to English authors, for tetanus spasms, plague, cholera, rheumatism, and, finally, as a treatment for delirium tremens.”

Trnkoczy brothers’ monopoly

As Habsburg rule neared its end, the Trnkoczy brothers, pharmacists based in Ljubljana, secured a virtual monopoly as suppliers of pre-rolled medical marijuana cigarettes for the entire Austrian portion of the dual monarchy. Their success was achieved with the backing of the regional Carniolan Government, led by Julius von Trnkoczy, who argued that their products were unaffected by the prohibition against imported French medicinal cigarettes.

While the regulations governing the Austrian production got loosened, those targeting imported wares were reaffirmed. In 1896, the customs authorities emphasized that “the import of hemp cigarettes from Grimault and Comp. in Paris is forbidden. Medicinal cigars made from cannabis indica and in general all that contain tobacco are to be treated as tobacco products, while those without tobacco are to be treated as medicinal preparations.” Consequently, the Trnkoczy brothers pivoted from marketing the cannabis cigarettes as a medicinal product, but one for leisure.

J. Stojan (2023), “Lost archives and found voices: reconstructing the marketing history of medical marijuana in Austria-Hungary”, Journal of Historical Research in Marketing, Vol. 15 No.3, pp. 201-221.

In Serbia, “Majke i Snajke” (Mothers and Daughters-in-Law) illustrates this concept vividly. On the surface, it is a culinary duel of women vying for favour of the son/husband. Deep down, it is a tableau of traditional family dynamics and the societal importance of domestic culinary skills. This show is not just a contest; it is a cultural commentary, weaving family relationships into the fabric of national identity, embodying the Serbian values of familial bonds and the revered status of culinary expertise.

Contrastingly, Croatia’s “Tri dva jedan – kuhaj!” (Three Two One – Cook!) spotlights a different facet of national character. The show’s evolution is striking, as noted by producer Danijela Habek, who speaks of a “return to roots” in recent seasons, simplifying the contest of competing pairs structure to enhance the culinary challenge. This mirrors the Croatian ethos of community and collaboration. Judge Ivan Pažanin’s description of the show as a “real gastro competition” with a focus on professional cooking and a wide culinary range, from traditional Croatian dishes to global cuisines, underscores this communal spirit. 

The culinary themes and recipes featured in these shows also offer insights into the historical and geographical influences shaping national cuisines. For instance, the emphasis on hearty, comfort foods in Serbian cooking shows reflects the importance of communal meals in its social fabric. Croatian shows often feature seafood and Mediterranean flavours, highlighting the country’s geographical location and historical ties with Mediterranean and Central European culinary traditions.

These cooking shows are more than entertainment; they are a narrative of nations. As they continue to evolve, they will undoubtedly serve as key indicators of societal changes and cultural continuities, offering a unique perspective on the nations they represent. They do more than just satiate the appetite; they nourish cultural curiosity and foster a deeper understanding of the rich tapestry that is the Adriatic region.

In conclusion, the cooking shows of the Adriatic region are a testament to the power of cuisine as a cultural identifier. They are a celebration of national heritage, a reflection of societal values, and a vibrant medium through which the story of a nation is told, bite by delicious bite. 

It’s July, so it’s only right to turn our attention to ice creams. One of our favourite treats has been around for thousands of years. As far back as 500BC, the Persians are believed to have created an early version by mixing snow with grape juice and other flavours. In the Roman empire, Nero sent slaves to collect snow from the mountains to mix with honey and wine, while the Tang Dynasty in China developed a creamy mix made from buffalo milk, flour, and camphor.

Then, in the 17th century, the French introduced the milk-based ice creams as we know them today.  By the 18th century, ice cream had made its way to America, where it rapidly gained popularity. With the invention of cone in the mid-19th centry, the ice cream was set for global dominance.

Today, the biggest consumers of the frozen delight are not Americans as popularly believed – it’s New Zealanders. Huge fans, an average Kiwi consumes over 28kg of ice cream per year! In our region, Croats top the table with 7.5kg per person, with Serbs consuming 5kg, and Slovenians and Bosnians just under 4kg.

Flavours to savour

While vanilla still reigns supreme as the most popular flavour in many countries, followed closely by chocolate, our taste buds have altered in recent times and, frankly, we are spoiled for choice. Ice cream makers have created and continue to create some truly unique and unusual flavours: avocado, garlic, chili, Stilton cheese, bacon, asparagus, even oysters!

Those might not be up your street but flavours, such as those created by Aroma Global, Slovenian-owned ice cream brand with production in Croatia, are much more appealing: hazelnut, caramel with sea salt, mango, pistachio, dark chocolate, raspberry, to name but a few. The company’s founder and majority owner Primož Ogrizek proudly explains that the ingredients in their aROMA gelato are natural and sourced from various parts of the world: pistachios from the Bronte region in Sicily, Piedmont hazelnuts, Madagascar vanilla, raspberries from Arilje in Serbia, Alphonso mangoes from India, and exclusively local fresh milk, cream, and yogurt. They company uses fresh fruit, cold-pressed citrus, and fresh herbs such as basil, mint, and rosemary to ensure that aROMA’s gelato stands out, Ogrizek adds. What is more, they also have specialised flavours such as Fior Di Latte with olive oil, teranino, and lavender with lemon, adding a local touch in their offering.

Amongst the more than 50 produced flavours by the company, it is pistachio that tops the popularity in their 57 boutiques across Croatia. Our guess is it’s probably worth a try.

In the queue yet?